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The well-heeled mini state that is bucking the trend in Zimbabwe

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BY DOUGLAS ROGERS

One writer returns to the country of his birth to discover how a ‘Wonder of the World’ is transforming tourism in troubled times.

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It was 4pm in Zambezi National Park, a few miles from the majestic Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, and the watering hole was quiet. A fireball sun dipped over the borderlands to the west. From our timber-built hide, my son Whitaker, aged 12, panned his binoculars across the landscape and saw a cloud of dust on the horizon. “There’s something coming,” he said.

Steve Taylor, our Zimbabwe-born guide, took a look. “Good spot, Whitaker,” he said. “Buffalo. Hundreds of them!” He checked his watch. “They’ll be here in 45 minutes. Anyone fancy a sundowner?”

Sure enough, exactly 45 minutes later, 300 Cape buffalo stood drinking at the pan and, like a post-work stampede for happy hour, other animals began to appear – antelope, warthog, a dozen elephants, a lone giraffe. Somewhere nearby, hyenas howled.

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“Ten years ago, you wouldn’t have seen game like this here,” said Taylor, founder and owner of Askari Safari, who splits his time between the United States and a new home in Victoria Falls. “The area was in trouble, and there were few animals because of poaching and mismanagement. Now, all that is changing.”

The reason is the establishment, in 2011, of the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (Kaza), or Five Nations Peace Park. Kaza is the joining together of 36 national parks and three World Heritage Sites on the borders of five countries – Angola, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe – making it the largest transboundary wildlife system in the world. The size of France, and home to half of Africa’s elephants, Kaza has shown how cross-border cooperation on wildlife management, anti-poaching and community conservation can transform animal populations

Tourism is making a comeback, too, and Victoria Falls – Zimbabwe’s spray- drenched colonial river town, a Wonder of the World within Kaza – is booming. Helicopters buzz the cataracts, white-water rafters and luxury river boats ply the Zambezi and people like Taylor, who left Zimbabwe in the bad old days, are buying property there or moving back permanently.

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This was my first post-Covid trip to the country of my birth, from my home in the United States. Part of the reason was to attend a memorial service for my late father in eastern Zimbabwe, where I grew up, but it was also a chance to spend a week’s holiday with my extended family in the Falls, on the opposite side of the country.

I love coming “home”, but Zim is a mess. Inflation is rampant, prices are exorbitant, roads and other infrastructure are crumbling. The exception is Victoria Falls, which might as well be another country. My first glimpse of it was at the impressive airport built by the Chinese in 2015. International flights arrive from seven countries and the energy and excitement at arrivals far exceeds what you feel when landing in Harare, the capital. “We have a saying here: ‘Turn left for Victoria Falls, turn right for Zimbabwe’,” said our transfer driver as he turned left out of the airport on to a smooth, newly built road towards the regenerated town.We had booked a thatched four-bedroom Airbnb named Acacia, in a leafy suburb, and that afternoon did what every self-respecting visitor to the Falls does: have high tea at the Victoria Falls Hotel. I confess, I was braced for disappointment. Built in 1904, the grandest of southern Africa’s grandes dames offers spectacular views of the steel railway bridge across the Zambezi Gorge, but my last visit there 15 years ago had been a complete disaster. With political turmoil and hyper-inflation at their height, there was no electricity, my room was full of cobwebs and I paid my bill with a backpack full of Zimbabwean dollars.

This time around, much to my surprise, the hotel was undergoing a multi-million-dollar renovation – and it looked immaculate. We were swiftly ushered to the Stanley Terrace, fronting lush green lawns where cucumber sandwiches, scones and a dozen types of cake were being delivered in style on three-tiered silver platters.

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Far from rejecting its colonial past, the hotel honours it with an entire hallway of framed photographs of British Royalty. All around us, well-heeled Americans and Europeans were enjoying their afternoon teas and quaffing their pink gins.

But it isn’t just tourists who are coming back to this trend-bucking corner of Zim. An estimated five million Zimbabweans have fled the country since 2000, and most of them continue to live abroad. Of those returning, many choose to settle in the Falls. To get a glimpse of this local scene, Stephen Taylor suggested I visit Loretta’s Coffee Caravan, just around the corner from our Airbnb.Five years ago, the cafe’s owner “TK” Musungwa was running a driving school in Stockport, England, his family having fled Zimbabwe for Manchester in the early 2000s. On a visit to Harare, he met his now wife Loretta – a barista – and on a trip to the Falls, they discovered that they couldn’t find a decent cup of coffee anywhere. TK said farewell to England and Loretta’s Coffee Caravan was born, serving a chocolate-rich blend of Zimbabwean, Rwandan and Tanzanian beans as well as fruit smoothies.

“Vic Falls feels like an island far removed from the madness of Zim,” TK told me, “a small town where people can reinvent themselves. England is an easier place [to live], but this is the home I love.”

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I certainly loved Loretta’s – a bustling coffee shop with tables set under a mahogany tree, frequented not by commuters seeking their caffeine fix but by khaki-clad game guides, armed park rangers, dashing river rafters and real-estate agents cashing in on the property boom.

On our third day, we hit the rapids. The Zambezi below the Falls arguably offers the greatest white-water rafting in the world, so I booked a trip with local outfit Shockwave.Its river outings are not for the faint-hearted. First comes an hour-long trek into the boiling belly of the gorge with the unsettling knowledge that an even steeper climb (up) awaits you down river. Tackling Grade 5 rapids with names such as Jaws of Death and Washing Machine is both terrifying and exhilarating. We were lucky to have as our guide Pilani Moyo, the owner of Shockwave and the first black Zimbabwean to own a rafting business on the Zambezi. He spends the off-season guiding on the greatest rivers in the world and has a home in Colorado, in the United States.

More sedate by far was the four-hour dinner cruise we took on the lush upper reaches of the river, a mile or two upstream from the Falls. I recall taking a “booze cruise” here years ago – on a rusty junk of a vessel filled with rowdy passengers drinking warm beer. This was very different. Our boat, Pure Africa’s Zambezi Explorer, was a sumptuous three-deck vessel with designer sofas, hand-woven Ndebele-patterned chairs and a staff of mixologists, waiters and chefs in addition to the boat captain.Dinner was served at sunset as we cruised past long-tusked elephants grazing on the riverbanks, with hippos snorting in the shallows and a fiery sun setting over towering palm trees upriver. To our immediate right was Zambia, with Botswana, Namibia and Angola beyond. My all-American children were wide-eyed with wonder, and I thought of all the fellow Zimbabweans I had met who had opted to return home. As I write this, I am looking at properties online and thinking seriously about following them. Something must come up.

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Essentials

Douglas Rogers was a guest of Askari Safari (askarisafari.com), which offers a five-night Victoria Falls tour taking in Zambezi National Park from £4,000pp. It includes a guided visit to the Falls, three adrenaline activities, a river cruise plus all breakfasts and dinners, but not flights. In 2025, he and Askari’s owner, Steve Taylor, will lead Storyteller 2025 – a two-week literary safari with talks by game guides, writers and artists.

Five reasons to visit Victoria Falls

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  1. Wildlife wonders

The Falls themselves are wild – but the resurgent animal population is another reason to visit. The region comprises two national parks and is on the edge of the great Hwange game reserve. For the best viewing close to town, take a guided or self-drive trip to Chamabonda Vlei, a narrow plain dotted with watering holes within Zambezi National Park. While you are in town, book a visit to the Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust (vicfallswildlifetrust.org), a non-profit organisation that rescues animals wounded by poachers.

  1. Luxurious lodgings

The refurbished Victoria Falls Hotel offers the ultimate in Edwardian era refinement (victoriafallshotel.com; doubles from £420 per night). Ilala, with its gardens and thatched roofs, has a timeless, classic safari lodge feel (ilalalodge.com; doubles from £380). Newly opened Drift Inn is a budget nine-room B&B offering great breakfasts, artisanal coffee, a swimming pool and a yoga, massage and reflexology studio (driftinnvicfalls.com; doubles from £75).

  1. Glorious food

Chef, restaurateur and cookbook author Sarah Lilford serves up Zimbabwe’s most exciting culinary offering at Dusty Road (dustyroad.africa). The daughter of white farmers who lost their land in the early 2000s, she set up her restaurant in working-class Chinotimba township offering authentic Zim dishes – beef stew, chicken in peanut butter, grilled bream – cooked on wood fires. Enjoy them on the veranda or under trees in the backyard. Don’t miss the dried mopani worm snack or the vodka cocktail made with baobab powder. In town, the Three Monkeys (3monkeyszw.com) serves a great tomahawk steak. Next morning, order a flat white at Loretta’s Coffee and Smoothie Caravan on Reynard Road.

4. Thrills and spills

Victoria Falls is Africa’s adventure sports capital. Shockwave (shockwavevictoriafalls.com) offers exhilarating white-water rafting trips, while Wild Horizons (wildhorizons.co.za) operates the heart-in-mouth gorge swing and zip-line right in front of its uber-stylish Lookout Café (thelookoutcafe.com). Shearwater (shearwaterbungee.com) pioneered bungee jumping off the Vic Falls bridge. For more leisurely river adventures, Pure Africa (pure.africa/experiences) offers elegant sunrise, sunset and dinner cruises on the Zambezi in a fleet of luxury vessels.

  1. Art and history

Renowned artist and conservationist Larry Norton has a gallery at the Victoria Falls Hotel (larrynorton.co.za), showcasing his giant, hyper-realistic wildlife paintings. The hotel’s open-air Stone Dynamics Gallery (stonedynamicsgallery.com) displays and sells the work of some of Zimbabwe’s leading sculptors, including Dominic Benhura. Meanwhile, historian Chris Worden from Footsteps of Livingstone (footstepsoflivingstone.com) gives a mesmerising one-hour talk on the life of David Livingstone that could almost be a one-man play in London’s West End. The Telegraph 

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591 rangers killed in Africa — New report warns of urgent need for Better Protection

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BY NOKUTHABA DLAMINI 

At least 591 rangers were killed in Africa between 2006 and 2021, making the continent the deadliest place in the world for those on the frontline of protecting wildlife. This stark statistic was revealed by conservation charity Tusk in a press statement issued to mark World Ranger Day, warning that without urgent reforms, more lives will be lost — and Africa’s biodiversity will pay the price.

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“Being a ranger extends far beyond conservation. You are educators, community leaders, researchers, mentors and protectors of cultural and historical heritage, yet this remains one of the most dangerous jobs on Earth,” said Prince William, Tusk’s Royal Patron, in a video message to rangers.

Despite their sacrifices, fewer than 40% of rangers worldwide have access to life insurance, and only 63% receive basic medical services. Many are still underpaid, under-equipped, and exposed to deadly risks from armed poachers, human-wildlife conflict, and hazardous terrain.

Nick Bubb, CEO of Tusk, said: “Too many rangers risk their lives without even the most basic protection. If we are serious about delivering the global biodiversity targets, we must further professionalise the ranger role – with insurance, fair pay, and recognition – so that it becomes a career young Africans aspire to join.”

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The White Paper, Protecting Rangers to Protect Nature, stresses that Africa currently has just 65,000 active rangers — far short of the 345,000 needed to meet international biodiversity targets, including the 30×30 goal to protect 30% of land and seas by 2030.

Louise de Bruin, CEO of the Game Rangers Association of Africa, added: “Our priority is to stand with rangers on the ground and support the organisations that employ them. The RWSI gives us a practical way to listen to rangers, assess their needs, and work alongside partners to improve welfare standards.”

The statement calls for governments, donors, and conservation organisations to embed reforms through the Ranger Welfare and Standards Initiative, launched last year. Measures include affordable insurance, professional training, fair pay, and continent-wide emergency systems to ensure no ranger is left vulnerable.

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Senior ranger Benson Kanyembo from Zambia captured the human cost: “Ranger recruitment is low because the job, as it stands, is not attractive enough. Rangers face extreme personal risk while their families live one accident or illness away from destitution. This is not acceptable.”

The report concludes that protecting rangers is inseparable from protecting nature. Without them, Africa risks losing not only its iconic elephants, rhinos, and lions — but also the ecosystems that provide food, water, and livelihoods for millions.

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Rangers run for conservation: The Wildlife Ranger Challenge in Gwai

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BY NOKUTHABA DLAMINI 

Knowledge Sibanda, a 23-year-old ranger with the Conservation Wildlife Fund (CWF), stood at the starting line of the Wildlife Ranger Challenge, a 21-kilometer run held on Saturday. “I’m running because I want to show that rangers care about their health and our environment,” he said. This was his first time participating in the event, and as he looked around at his fellow rangers, excitement pulsed through him.

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As the horn sounded around 6AM, Knowledge and other rangers surged forward along the scenic Lubimbi Road, with water stations and fruit stands cheering them on every few kilometers. This was not just a race; it was a gathering to celebrate the vital work of wildlife rangers across Africa. Organized by the Painted Dog Conservation, the challenge aims to enhance rangers’ livelihoods while advocating for better training and support in their critical roles.

Running alongside Knowledge was Mbonisi Mudimba, another ranger who emphasized the purpose behind their participation. “We want to encourage the younger generation to get involved in conservation,” he explained, breathing heavily but with a smile of determination. “If we show them that we care and that being a ranger can be fulfilling, they’ll want to join us.”

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As the rangers completed their race, the atmosphere shifted to one of celebration and reflection. Participants gathered at a Gwai Valley School for a series of presentations that emphasized the day’s theme: protecting the environment for future generations.

Headman Doctor Ncube from Chimwara Village, who represented Chief Mabhikwa, spoke about the importance of conserving natural resources. “Thank you to the scouts and organizers of this event. This nature is vital, and as traditional leaders, we must protect it,” he said. He urged the rangers to stay fit, as their physical endurance is critical to countering poaching and safeguarding wildlife.

David Kuvawoga, Operations Director at Painted Dog Conservation, shared his appreciation of the rangers’ efforts. “We’re here today to show that we’re united in our mission,” he remarked. “Rangers work tirelessly, often away from their families, to protect our natural resources. Their dedication deserves recognition.”

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Dan Cloete, the Field Operations Manager at CWF, also highlighted the role of these events in building community support. “By hosting events like this, we show that rangers are not alone in their fight for conservation. Together, we can achieve more,” he stated, underscoring the camaraderie built during the race.

The day’s events culminated in an acknowledgment of the challenges faced by rangers. Debra Ogilvie-Roodt, who leads the CWF, reminded everyone of the risks involved in conservation work. “Rangers put their lives on the line every day. It’s essential that we raise awareness of their dedication and support them in any way we can,” she urged, calling for ongoing efforts to improve ranger welfare.

The Wildlife Ranger Challenge served as a reminder of the collaborative effort needed to protect the environment, Kuvawoga further stated.

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With determined rangers leading the way, communities like those in Mabale, Dete and Gwai are beginning to understand their vital role in safeguarding the natural world. After all, it isn’t just a race; it’s a movement toward preserving the planet for future generations.

In addition to the inspiring speeches and side celebrations, the event received significant support from various partners and community members including the Amalinda Safaris, the Friends of Hwange, the Gwayi Farmers Association, Wilderness Safaris, and many others who rallied behind the cause.

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More than 80 buffaloes drown in Namibia after falling off cliff

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BY BBC NEWS

More than 80 buffaloes have been killed after they trampled over each other and drowned in a river, Namibia’s environment and tourism department has said.

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The buffaloes were being chased by lions in neighbouring Botswana when they “fell from a deep cliff” into the Chobe River on the Namibian side of the border, it added in a statement.

Hundreds of buffaloes have been killed in similar circumstances in the past.

In one of the worst cases, around 400 died in 2018 after they ran into the river, which flows through Botswana’s Chobe National Park, a major tourist attraction known for its huge number of elephants, buffaloes and giraffes.

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An official at Namibia’s Kabulabula Conservancy told the BBC the herd of buffaloes was fleeing lions in Chobe National Park.

“Whenever they are chased by lions, they try to cross over into Namibia and start [trampling over] each other,” the conservancy’s Mbeha Tadeus said.

A spokesperson for the Namibian Environment, Forestry and Tourism Ministry, Ndeshipanda Hamunyela, confirmed that the animals came from Botswana, but could not say whether they were from Chobe National Park.

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Ms Hamunyela told the BBC that the meat from the carcasses would be “distributed to communities in the immediate area”.

In a video shared by the Namibian public broadcaster, NBC, on its X page, residents can be seen dividing the meat among themselves near the banks of the river.

The NBC put the number of buffaloes killed at 90, reporting that the incident happened at around 05:00 local time (07:00 GMT).

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