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Victoria Falls — The smoke that thunders!

Our local guide advised us to wear raincoats and shoes with good footing, otherwise we might get really wet and slip on wet, slippery rocks on a trail to and along the rim of one of the world’s iconic wonders, Victoria Falls.

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BY TOM NICHOLLS

In 2016, I was leading a natural history trip to Zambia and Zimbabwe with Leslie Stoltz for a group of people who were eager to visit Victoria Falls; we weren’t disappointed.

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Our local guide advised us to wear raincoats and shoes with good footing, otherwise we might get really wet and slip on wet, slippery rocks on a trail to and along the rim of one of the world’s iconic wonders, Victoria Falls.

As the largest waterfall in the world, Victoria Falls needs little introduction, but reading about it and seeing it are two entirely different things.

They can’t compare.

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As we neared the falls on the trail, it didn’t take us long to realize the need for raincoats and good walking shoes.

The trail was slippery from heavy mist rising from the plunging waterfalls that was so thick at times we could hardly see the falls, let alone take good pictures of it. We probably should have had ear plugs too as the sound was deafening at times as the water plunged down the gorges of the falls.

The falls surely earned its official name — The Smoke that Thunders!

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The name comes from the Lozi language of the area — a name that perfectly captures the almost mystical atmosphere of this World Heritage Site. Victoria Falls is a place of myth, magic, adventure, beauty, and romance.

Despite water thundering down gorges releasing mist seen for miles from the air looking like smoke, we were often thrilled with breath-taking vistas of water plunging down steep cliffs surrounded by lush vegetation and the birds and animals that live in the area. It is a sight that none of us will soon forget.

If you are a traveller, it is a ‘must see’ and, for that reason, I would like to provide you with some background information from our safari and Africa Geographic.

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The world-famous Victoria Falls mark the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe in Africa, where the mighty Zambezi River gathers its strength and tumbles off a fractured basalt plateau into a series of dramatic gorges 330 feet below.

We held a memorable birthday party for my son, Cory, while floating on a boat on the Zambezi just above the falls among snorting hippos!

The thought crossed some of our minds about what might happen to us if our boat motor stopped working!

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Victoria Falls is not the tallest waterfall in the world (on land, this title is held by Angel Falls in Venezuela), but it has the single largest continuous falling curtain of water in the world at about 5,600 feet.

At the height of the rainy season, five hundred million cubic meters of water hurtle over the edge every minute, sending up clouds of rainbow spray.

From there, the river is forced through a narrow and twisting path between walls of steep rock — a churning tumble of Grade V rapids ideal for thrill-seekers looking to test their nerve.

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None in our group were thrill-seekers, thank goodness!

Zambia lies on the northern and eastern side of the falls, while Zimbabwe is situated to the south and west.

The neighboring cities of Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean side and Livingstone on the Zambian side are thriving tourism hubs easily accessed by road, rail or air.

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Upstream of the falls, the Zambezi River flows across an almost flat basalt plateau in a shallow valley teeming with wildlife and dotted with sedate luxury lodges away from the bustle of the central tourism regions.

The two countries are connected by the Victoria Falls Bridge — a 1905 marvel of engineering that spans the Second Gorge, designed as part of Cecil Rhodes’ Cape to Cairo Railway vision.

The river is usually at its most dramatic from February until May where the greatest volume of water tumbles over the falls.

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The flip side of this is that there is a chance the falls may not be clearly visible, obscured by the spray.

After months of dry weather, the falls reduce and reach their lowest levels towards the end of the year.

At certain times of the day, the mist from the waterfall catches the light at just the right angle, creating arched rainbows.

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Viewed from the forest amidst clouds of butterflies and accompanied by the cries of trumpeter hornbills, the effect is like something out of a fairy tale. Possibly even more magical are the lunar rainbows, visible for three nights a month.

There are two small national parks protecting the falls and their surroundings, the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park on the Zambian side and its twin, the Victoria Falls National Park, on the opposite side of the river.

Both parks are teeming with wildlife with over 460 bird species found in the area around Victoria Falls and elephants are everywhere and we saw plenty of them and many interesting birds including the trumpeter hornbills. – Nature Education Center

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591 rangers killed in Africa — New report warns of urgent need for Better Protection

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BY NOKUTHABA DLAMINI 

At least 591 rangers were killed in Africa between 2006 and 2021, making the continent the deadliest place in the world for those on the frontline of protecting wildlife. This stark statistic was revealed by conservation charity Tusk in a press statement issued to mark World Ranger Day, warning that without urgent reforms, more lives will be lost — and Africa’s biodiversity will pay the price.

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“Being a ranger extends far beyond conservation. You are educators, community leaders, researchers, mentors and protectors of cultural and historical heritage, yet this remains one of the most dangerous jobs on Earth,” said Prince William, Tusk’s Royal Patron, in a video message to rangers.

Despite their sacrifices, fewer than 40% of rangers worldwide have access to life insurance, and only 63% receive basic medical services. Many are still underpaid, under-equipped, and exposed to deadly risks from armed poachers, human-wildlife conflict, and hazardous terrain.

Nick Bubb, CEO of Tusk, said: “Too many rangers risk their lives without even the most basic protection. If we are serious about delivering the global biodiversity targets, we must further professionalise the ranger role – with insurance, fair pay, and recognition – so that it becomes a career young Africans aspire to join.”

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The White Paper, Protecting Rangers to Protect Nature, stresses that Africa currently has just 65,000 active rangers — far short of the 345,000 needed to meet international biodiversity targets, including the 30×30 goal to protect 30% of land and seas by 2030.

Louise de Bruin, CEO of the Game Rangers Association of Africa, added: “Our priority is to stand with rangers on the ground and support the organisations that employ them. The RWSI gives us a practical way to listen to rangers, assess their needs, and work alongside partners to improve welfare standards.”

The statement calls for governments, donors, and conservation organisations to embed reforms through the Ranger Welfare and Standards Initiative, launched last year. Measures include affordable insurance, professional training, fair pay, and continent-wide emergency systems to ensure no ranger is left vulnerable.

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Senior ranger Benson Kanyembo from Zambia captured the human cost: “Ranger recruitment is low because the job, as it stands, is not attractive enough. Rangers face extreme personal risk while their families live one accident or illness away from destitution. This is not acceptable.”

The report concludes that protecting rangers is inseparable from protecting nature. Without them, Africa risks losing not only its iconic elephants, rhinos, and lions — but also the ecosystems that provide food, water, and livelihoods for millions.

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Rangers run for conservation: The Wildlife Ranger Challenge in Gwai

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BY NOKUTHABA DLAMINI 

Knowledge Sibanda, a 23-year-old ranger with the Conservation Wildlife Fund (CWF), stood at the starting line of the Wildlife Ranger Challenge, a 21-kilometer run held on Saturday. “I’m running because I want to show that rangers care about their health and our environment,” he said. This was his first time participating in the event, and as he looked around at his fellow rangers, excitement pulsed through him.

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As the horn sounded around 6AM, Knowledge and other rangers surged forward along the scenic Lubimbi Road, with water stations and fruit stands cheering them on every few kilometers. This was not just a race; it was a gathering to celebrate the vital work of wildlife rangers across Africa. Organized by the Painted Dog Conservation, the challenge aims to enhance rangers’ livelihoods while advocating for better training and support in their critical roles.

Running alongside Knowledge was Mbonisi Mudimba, another ranger who emphasized the purpose behind their participation. “We want to encourage the younger generation to get involved in conservation,” he explained, breathing heavily but with a smile of determination. “If we show them that we care and that being a ranger can be fulfilling, they’ll want to join us.”

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As the rangers completed their race, the atmosphere shifted to one of celebration and reflection. Participants gathered at a Gwai Valley School for a series of presentations that emphasized the day’s theme: protecting the environment for future generations.

Headman Doctor Ncube from Chimwara Village, who represented Chief Mabhikwa, spoke about the importance of conserving natural resources. “Thank you to the scouts and organizers of this event. This nature is vital, and as traditional leaders, we must protect it,” he said. He urged the rangers to stay fit, as their physical endurance is critical to countering poaching and safeguarding wildlife.

David Kuvawoga, Operations Director at Painted Dog Conservation, shared his appreciation of the rangers’ efforts. “We’re here today to show that we’re united in our mission,” he remarked. “Rangers work tirelessly, often away from their families, to protect our natural resources. Their dedication deserves recognition.”

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Dan Cloete, the Field Operations Manager at CWF, also highlighted the role of these events in building community support. “By hosting events like this, we show that rangers are not alone in their fight for conservation. Together, we can achieve more,” he stated, underscoring the camaraderie built during the race.

The day’s events culminated in an acknowledgment of the challenges faced by rangers. Debra Ogilvie-Roodt, who leads the CWF, reminded everyone of the risks involved in conservation work. “Rangers put their lives on the line every day. It’s essential that we raise awareness of their dedication and support them in any way we can,” she urged, calling for ongoing efforts to improve ranger welfare.

The Wildlife Ranger Challenge served as a reminder of the collaborative effort needed to protect the environment, Kuvawoga further stated.

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With determined rangers leading the way, communities like those in Mabale, Dete and Gwai are beginning to understand their vital role in safeguarding the natural world. After all, it isn’t just a race; it’s a movement toward preserving the planet for future generations.

In addition to the inspiring speeches and side celebrations, the event received significant support from various partners and community members including the Amalinda Safaris, the Friends of Hwange, the Gwayi Farmers Association, Wilderness Safaris, and many others who rallied behind the cause.

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More than 80 buffaloes drown in Namibia after falling off cliff

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BY BBC NEWS

More than 80 buffaloes have been killed after they trampled over each other and drowned in a river, Namibia’s environment and tourism department has said.

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The buffaloes were being chased by lions in neighbouring Botswana when they “fell from a deep cliff” into the Chobe River on the Namibian side of the border, it added in a statement.

Hundreds of buffaloes have been killed in similar circumstances in the past.

In one of the worst cases, around 400 died in 2018 after they ran into the river, which flows through Botswana’s Chobe National Park, a major tourist attraction known for its huge number of elephants, buffaloes and giraffes.

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An official at Namibia’s Kabulabula Conservancy told the BBC the herd of buffaloes was fleeing lions in Chobe National Park.

“Whenever they are chased by lions, they try to cross over into Namibia and start [trampling over] each other,” the conservancy’s Mbeha Tadeus said.

A spokesperson for the Namibian Environment, Forestry and Tourism Ministry, Ndeshipanda Hamunyela, confirmed that the animals came from Botswana, but could not say whether they were from Chobe National Park.

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Ms Hamunyela told the BBC that the meat from the carcasses would be “distributed to communities in the immediate area”.

In a video shared by the Namibian public broadcaster, NBC, on its X page, residents can be seen dividing the meat among themselves near the banks of the river.

The NBC put the number of buffaloes killed at 90, reporting that the incident happened at around 05:00 local time (07:00 GMT).

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