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How Victoria Falls survived when tourism ran dry

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BY LESLEY STONES

The Ndebele dancers who greet visitors at Victoria Falls airport have a delightful exuberance in their step these days.

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Not many travellers are trickling in, but those who come enjoy broad smiles, impeccable service and a slew of new offerings as Zimbabwe’s tourism hub reinvents itself.

The Covid pandemic threatened total collapse since tourism provides the only income here.

Hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and bars closed down.

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Tour guides and transfer companies had nobody to collect, and the hundreds of craftsmen had no buyers.

When the schools closed, many children lost their main meal of the day.

As well as poverty came a looming medical crisis, since the ill-equipped hospital had no facilities to treat Covid patients.

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Then the community swung into action.

The government had already started a programme to promote tourism by supporting small and medium sized businesses with backing from the International Financial Cooperation, part of the World Bank Group.

When the pandemic hit they quickly established an initiative called We Are Victoria Falls and appointed Shelley Cox, a specialist in linking tourism to conservation and community development, as its crisis communications coordinator.

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Different committees were formed to focus on feeding schemes, healthcare, wildlife preservation and public works and maintenance. “Looking after the community, nature, wildlife and our town were key focuses.

“Everybody was working hand-in-hand to make sure nobody was left behind,” Cox says.

An HIV/Aids organisation donated its buildings as a Covid isolation centre and all the builders rallied around to install plumbing and partitions to make it fit for purpose.

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Donors were lobbied to provide medical equipment and protective clothing, vegetable gardens were planted and mass vaccinations were rolled out quickly.

A ‘food for work’ scheme let people work for three or four hours on community projects in return for 10kg of mealie meal.

Artists like Moses Kalembela formed the Rasta Compassion group and built a kids’ playground and delivered food to the old age home. He and his fellow artists have returned to the Elephant’s Walk craft centre now after directing their skills elsewhere for 18 months.

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“Anybody who cared about the town came forward and said what can I do?” says Christine Brookstein, creative director of Ndau Collection jewellers.

“We have become a family because it’s pulled us together even more. We used every connection we had and we’ve got a fully equipped medical centre now that’s absolutely free for anybody who walks in.”

Other lasting results include a vocational centre to teach crafts, the opening of a women’s refuge for victims of domestic abuse, and flourishing vegetable gardens.

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One of the most active players was Blessing Munyenyiwa, founder of the Love For Africa charity.

He previously worked for Disney’s Animal Kingdom in Florida, and persuaded his international contacts to make some hefty donations.

His efforts saw an oxygenator installed at the hospital to pump oxygen directly to beds in the ICU, and he oversaw the planting of nutritional gardens to feed the patients and staff.

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On the business front he’s now opening the Zimbabwe Boutique, a solar-powered hotel with a wine cellar, a spa, gym and swimming pool, and activities including star gazing and conservation talks.

His hotel is one of many newly launched or revamped ventures, since tourism will inevitably bounce back because of the magnetic allure of Victoria Falls themselves.

But if visitors fly in, admire the Falls then leave within a day or two, the revenue will be minimal.

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The operators know they must widen the attractions to draw a more diverse mix of people and offer activities and accommodation that will appeal to post-pandemic travellers.The visitor profile was already shifting before Covid, moving away from young thrill seekers to more culturally curious people, says Wild Horizons director Shane White.

“Many international people want to spend more time getting to know the country they’re visiting rather than just staying in five star hotels eating the best food. It’s about giving back,” he says.

Since foreigners often want to bring school supplies for the kids, Wild Horizons has started community tours to a school, an old people’s home and an orphanage where they can hear exactly what is required.

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“The guest can then go to the shops and buy it and do a little handover ceremony, so they’re buying what’s needed and spending their money in the local economy,” he says.

Wild Horizons runs lodges as well as tours, and combines the two by involving some employees in a home-hosted meals experience.

“We’re really keen for tourists to get to know the Zimbabweans who serve them and get to know their background, so you can book a lunch or a dinner and go to their home to meet their family and have a meal with them.

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“The revenue generated goes to the host and it’s absolutely fantastic.”

Another activity that spreads the income is a visit to a village – a genuine one, not a mocked-up façade.

The small operator Signature Africa took us to meet Chris Ncube, who graciously showed us his family homestead in Monde Village.

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He describes a lifestyle that hasn’t changed for centuries, using plants for medicine, drums instead of telephones, and battles to prevent wild animals from devouring their crops and livestock.

“We don’t go out of the fence at night because it’s not safe, so we light fires and make a lot of noise.

“The animals used to run away when they heard the noise, but now the elephants just enjoy the rhythm,” he says.

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People can also tour Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust , which runs a rescue and rehabilitation centre, conducts wildlife forensics and research and manages conflicts between humans and animals.

One initiative has seen it issue vuvuzelas to community guardians and cattle herders to scare away predatory lions.

South Africa’s famous instrument is so effective that the ear-blasted lions don’t return for weeks, says administrator Guendolyne Bere.

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Travellers interested in behind-the scenes activities can also join a new Conservation and Awareness Safari with Charles Brightman, who founded Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching unit.

Guests can sign up with his company Discover Safaris to log game sightings, remove snares and visit remote areas to look for signs of poaching.

The game viewing can be glorious here, since Victoria Falls is an access hub to the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA-TFCA).

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This is the world’s largest transfrontier conservation area and spans 36 national parks and game reserves in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Mobile tented safaris are now springing up in some of its territories including the Zambezi and Hwange National Parks.

Umdingi Safaris offers fully catered camps for up to six people in tents featuring bucket showers and flushable toilets.

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As we gaze into the Zambezi River, its owners Clint and Kelly Robertson ponder how best to market this fledgling operation.

“We want it to be owner-run and go on every trip because we want to become friends with our guests.

“It will attract a certain kind of person and that’s the market we need to find,” Clint says.- VicFallsLive

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Three painted dogs killed along Hwange highway as conservationists raise alarm

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BY NOKUTHABA DLAMINI

Conservationists have raised fresh concern over wildlife safety along the busy Bulawayo–Victoria Falls highway after three endangered African wild dog were killed in separate incidents within a week.

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In a statement, Painted Dog Conservation confirmed that two pups from the Umkhonto pack were struck and killed by a vehicle overnight within the Hwange landscape.

“We are heartbroken to share that two pups from the Umkhonto pack were killed overnight after being struck by a vehicle along the Bulawayo–Victoria Falls road,” the organisation said on Saturday.

The group said the pack had been safely escorted across a nearby road earlier, but is believed to have been disturbed by lions during the night, forcing them to move again toward the highway where the accident occurred.

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“Despite constant monitoring and intervention, moments like this remind us how fragile their survival can be,” the organisation added.

The deaths bring to three the number of painted dogs killed along the same highway corridor in less than a week, with another animal reportedly struck closer to Victoria Falls.

Conservationists warned that the loss goes beyond individual animals, highlighting the species’ already fragile population.

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“It’s not ‘just three dogs’. These three could have become alphas and been responsible for producing over 300 dogs through their offspring and subsequent generations,” the statement read.

Highway poses growing threat to wildlife

The Bulawayo–Victoria Falls road, which cuts through key wildlife areas including parts of Hwange National Park, has long been flagged as a danger zone for animals.

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The highway is a major tourism and freight route linking Bulawayo to Victoria Falls, carrying heavy traffic volumes that include haulage trucks, buses, and self-drive tourists—many travelling at high speeds, particularly at night.

Wildlife frequently crosses this corridor as it bisects natural habitats and migration routes, bringing animals such as elephants, lions and painted dogs into direct conflict with vehicles.

Conservation groups have repeatedly called for stricter enforcement of speed limits, improved signage, and traffic calming measures in wildlife zones, especially at night when visibility is poor and animal movement increases.

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Calls for action

Painted Dog Conservation urged motorists to slow down and remain vigilant when driving through wildlife areas.

“We urge all road users to slow down—especially at night—and call on authorities to strengthen and enforce speed reduction measures in wildlife areas. Their survival depends on it.”

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The deaths come amid growing concern over human-wildlife conflict in Matabeleland North, where expanding infrastructure and traffic volumes continue to put pressure on endangered species.

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Hwange West MP demands urgent action after two killed by elephants in Victoria Falls

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BY NOKUTHABA DLAMINI 

VICTORIA FALLS – Hwange West legislator Vusumuzi Moyo has called for urgent and decisive intervention to address escalating human-elephant conflict after two people were killed by elephants in Victoria Falls within the space of a week.

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Rising on a point of national interest in the National Assembly, Moyo said the recent deaths had left families in mourning and exposed the growing danger faced by communities living near wildlife corridors.

“In closing, Mr Speaker Sir, I want to convey my message to two families within Victoria Falls. This happened within a week. They lost their lives because of this conflict,” Moyo said. “In a space of a week, two families are mourning the loss of their loved ones.”

Victoria Falls and surrounding communities, which border wildlife areas, have in recent years experienced increased incidents of elephants straying into residential areas, destroying crops and infrastructure, and in some cases fatally attacking residents.

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Moyo told Parliament that the crisis must no longer be viewed solely as a conservation issue but as a matter of human dignity and national development.

“My issue is not merely about wildlife management. It is about national development, constitutional responsibility and ultimately, protecting human dignity,” he said.

He warned that communities from Kariba to Binga, and in tourism corridors around Victoria Falls, are “under siege” from escalating human-elephant conflict.

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“Families are losing crops, infrastructure is being destroyed and tragically, lives continue to be lost. This House cannot ignore the cries of rural citizens who coexist with wildlife every day,” Moyo said.

The Hwange West MP defended previous government decisions to cull elephants in high-conflict zones, arguing that such measures were sometimes necessary to restore ecological balance and protect human life.

“These are not acts of recklessness but acts of necessity because conservation must never come at the expense of human survival,” he said.

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While acknowledging the importance of non-lethal measures such as fencing and translocation, Moyo said in some areas those interventions were no longer sufficient on their own.

He urged authorities to urgently implement provisions of the Parks and Wildlife Act, promulgated on 28 November 2025, particularly in communities bordering national parks.

“It is my sincere hope that the implementation of the Parks and Wildlife Act… will be taken to the areas that border within national parks so that people appreciate and that the regulations can be done as fast as possible,” he said.

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Moyo stressed that Parliament must strike a balance between conservation and protecting human life.

“The people are not asking Parliament to choose between elephants and human beings. They are asking us to restore the balance,” he said.

The latest fatalities have renewed debate in Victoria Falls over how authorities can better safeguard residents while maintaining Zimbabwe’s strong conservation reputation.

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Hwange lion DNA helps convict poachers for first time

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BY BBC

Lion DNA has been used to successfully prosecute poachers for the first time in the world, it has emerged.

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Wildlife crime experts have only just revealed how they were able to identify the individual animal from body parts found in a suspect’s village, as they matched a profile on Zimbabwe’s lion database.

A blood sample had previously been taken from the male lion, which was being tracked by authorities in Hwange National Park – using a radio collar.

Two poachers were convicted for the 2024 incident and sent to prison in what is thought to be the first prosecution of its kind.

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The details of the convictions and the role the DNA database played have been previously unknown.

Non-governmental organisation (NGO) Traffic, which works to combat the illegal trade in wildlife, has shared the detail with us.

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In May 2024, authorities in Hwange National Park became suspicious after a radio collar worn by a male lion stopped working.

Investigators and police traced its last known position and found a snare with lion fur attached to it.

After collecting forensic evidence they questioned two men in a nearby village and discovered three sacks of meat, 16 lion claws and four teeth. These body parts would later be tested against the database, with the DNA from all matching the profile of that missing lion.

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But possessing lion parts is not necessarily a crime in Zimbabwe.

Having them can be explained away as old, traditional ornaments or as coming from an animal that died of natural causes.

This has been an obstacle to prosecutions in the past.

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But thanks to a breakthrough in DNA profiling, that’s now changed.

The lab generated a DNA profile from the recovered body parts and compared this to the profile previously generated from a blood sample of the lion with the radio collar.

The two profiles matched and scientists were able to identify the specific missing animal.

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Over the last eight years the Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust (VFWT) has received about £250,000 from the People’s Postcode Lottery in the UK to build up the DNA database of lions in Zimbabwe.

The scientist at the trust, who made the discovery, asked to remain anonymous for his own safety, but said:

“Before we had access to this technology, we were only able to do species identification, but sometimes that’s not enough.

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“We can essentially match those claws or those products to the lion of interest that we are looking for.”

Within 10 days of the killing, the DNA evidence was presented in court.

Two men pleaded guilty and were given 24 month prison sentences.

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The hearing was told the value of the lion was about $20,000.

Richard Scobey, Traffic’s executive director, said “countries now have the forensic capability to bring, solid science-based evidence to court” and that it will have global impact.

This is understood to be the first time that DNA from an individual lion has been identified and used to prosecute poachers.

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Professor Rob Ogden has been closely involved in setting up the project and is co- founder of the organisation Trace, which promotes the use of forensic science in wildlife law enforcement.

He says the prosecution gives “a message of hope” and shows what can be done using a combination of training, research and development and forensic casework.

Recent figures suggest an increase in the number of lions being killed for their body parts which are then sold both as cultural objects in Africa and for traditional Chinese medicine.

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It is thought the rise may be down to organised crime gangs also involved in the illegal trade in Rhino horn and ivory trafficking.

In Mozambique between 2010 and 2023, 426 lions were killed as a result of contact with humans with a quarter linked to deliberate poaching.

A measure of the scale of the trade is also the number of seizures by the authorities in recent years.

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That includes 17 lion skulls found in Lusaka in 2021, reportedly en-route from South Africa, and a 2023 seizure in Maputo of more than 300kg of lion body parts.

Which is why this breakthrough on DNA identification is seen as sending an important message to would-be poachers.

 

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